Handmade Steel
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Handmade Tattoo Machine Gun for Shader Steel frame $26.99 |
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Top Handmade Damascus Steel Tattoo Machine Gun Shader $49.99 |
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Hand Made Melaleuca Damascus Steel Tattoo Machine Liner $29.95 |
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Handmade carbon Steel COLOR Tattoo Machine Gun SHADER LINER EQUIPS 10 WRAP KIT $5.46 |
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Professional Pro Damascus Steel Handmade Tattoo Machine $29.95 |
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Damascus Steel Tattoo Machine Liner Gun Handmade LINER $39.99 |
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Handmade liner shader Tattoo Machine Rotary Guns kit+steel grip tip set Supply $18.97 |
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2012 Powerful Steel Custom Handmade TATTOO Machine Gun Shader Liner 10 Wraps KIT $14.95 |
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New handmade Cast Steel 10 Shader Liner Wrap Tattoo Machine dual gun F Grip/Tips $14.99 |
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Damascus Steel Hand Made Tattoo Machine Gun Shader Pro $39.99 |
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Damascus Steel Tattoo Machine Gun Liner Hand Made Prof. $39.99 |
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Damascus Steel Hand Made Tattoo Machine Shader Gun Pro $39.99 |
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Damascus Steel Handmade Tattoo Machine Gun Shader Pro $39.99 |
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Damascus Steel Tattoo Machine Gun Liner Handmade NEW $39.99 |
Make your own Handmade Bangle
Materials Required Tools
250mm of 4,6 or 8mm Sterling Silver ‘D’ wire Scribe
Hard or Medium Sterling Silver Solder Jewellery Saw
Flat and Round Needle Files
Blowtorch
Yellow Liquid Flux
Tweezers
Pickle Pot
Various Grades of Wet & Dry Paper
Oval Mandrel
Wooden Mallet
Optional Tools
Electric Rotary Tool with Polishing Brushes
Solid Polishing Compound
Tumble Polisher
- 1. Choose your size and Cut the silver
The first step is to decide what size you would like your bangle to be. Bear in mind that this is a closed bangle so you will have to make it large enough to fit over your hand. Have a look at the attached guide to see what length of wire you will need for your chosen size. If you are making the bangle to sell on then an average size would be roughly 80mm across at the widest point, for which you will require a wire length of approximately 210mm.
Mark your desired length using a scribe and then proceed to cut the wire. Ensure that the wire is well supported and that you start your cut with an upward stroke. Once you have cut through the wire check that both ends are flat and straight so that they will fit flush together. Flatten the ends using a file if necessary. During this phase it is worth taking the care to ensure you do not scratch the wire you are using. It is not a disaster if you do but just increases the amount of time you will have to spend in the finishing phase.
- 2. Solder the Bangle
The next step is to bend the bangle into shape. At this stage it doesn’t matter about the exact shape so long as both ends of the wire meet flush. You will need to bend the metal in such a way that the two ends remain straight and touching when you let go of them – unless you want hold it whilst you solder which I would not recommend! Next use a little wet and dry to ensure the surface is completely clean.
You are now ready to solder the joint. Place the bangle flat on a heat proof surface with the joint facing you and then using a flux brush cover the joint and the surrounding metal with a thin layer of flux. I recommend using a yellow liquid flux but I know that other designers prefer a powder flux so it will be about finding out which works best for you. Now cut a small piece of solder (roughly 2mm by 2mm will do) and place it as close to the joint as possible.
Now using the blowtorch gently heat the whole bangle before focusing the flame on the solder. You now need to watch the solder closely for when it takes a liquid form and fills the joint. Remove the flame as soon as this happens – which can be quite sudden so keep your eye on it. You can now quench the bangle in cold water – using tweezers not fingers – and then check that the solder has travelled all the way across the joint. If it hasn’t then simply repeat the process until it has but be careful not to overdo it as you will have to remove any excess solder later.
- 3. Pickle the Bangle
Place the Bangle in your pickle pot for about 10-15 minutes. This will remove any excess flux and other impurities that will affect the finish of the piece. Remove from the pickle pot using tweezers and be sure to rinse the piece in water before handling it.
- 4. Shape the Bangle
The first step to finishing the bangle is to file away the excess solder from the joint. Use a sweeping motion with the file and make sure you avoid mis-shaping the wire which is easily done if your filing is too vigorous. Continue filing until the joint itself is no longer visible.
Next, place the bangle over and oval mandrel. I find that steel mandrels are more effective because of their weight but these are considerably more expensive than the wooden alternatives. I would recommend starting with a wooden one and then investing in a steel one at a later date if you decide it is worth the investment. Hammer the bangle into shape around the mandrel using a wooden mallet, being careful not to strike the metal too hard as this may misshapen the wire. I have found that if you are using a steel mandrel it is a good idea to cover the mandrel beforehand with duck tape or something similar, as this will stop the inside of your bangle getting scratched creating more work for you later. Another tip is to make sure that once you have hammered the bangle into shape, turn it over and repeat the process. This will help prevent the piece being slightly wider on one side than the other.
If you are planning on having the bangle hallmarked – which you will have to if you plan to sell it – it is a good idea to send it away at this stage. This is because you will find that pieces will often be returned by the Assay office with scratches on them – meaning you will have to repeat the final finish stage.
- 5. Finish the Bangle
Put simply, the more time and effort you put into this stage then the brighter the finish on your bangle will be. Starting with a coarser grade of wet & dry paper and/or a coarse round emery stick, sand the entire surface of the bangle removing any scratches you can see, paying special attention to any areas you have filed. You will appreciate at this point how important it is not to scratch the metal during the previous stages. Repeat this process working your way through all of the different grades of paper you have. I would recommend going down (or up if you go by the number on the paper) to at least a 1200 grade. I would then move on to three grades of sanding brushes which are used with a rotary tool. The difference achieved here is minimal and I would not suggest you go out and buy a rotary tool just for this, however, if you already have one it is a quick process that only takes a couple of minutes. Ensure to run the tool at a slow speed and use a rotary motion to achieve the best effect.
- 6. Polish the Bangle
I tend to polish bangles in two stages but again this down to personal preference, as is the type of polish you use. I would suggest you start with a solid compound polish applied using the polishing brush for your rotary tool. Apply the polish to the entire surface, then keep it moving around until the brush starts to pick up the polish again, and continue until all the polish has been removed. Again, ensure that you use a slow speed.
The final step that I take is to put the bangle into a tumble polisher. Providing you have taken care during the finishing stage then this will finish the bangle with a gleaming shine as well as removing any leftover polish.
Congratulations – Your Handmade Bangle is finished.
About the Author
Michael Dennison is the Director of Jewellery Design for Hanfords of London. Since joining the company in early 2010 Michael has worked tirelessly in updating the Handmade Jewellery collection, whilst bringing new ideas and techniques to the manufacturing process. He is currently devoting a lot of time to the Company’s range of Handmade Necklaces which is constantly growing and improving. Hanfords of London as a company that also specialises in Chain Maille Jewellery, Handmade Rings, Handmade Pendants, Handmade Earrings, Handmade Bangles and Handmade Bracelets.
Describe Your Wedding Ring?
Is your ring platinum, gold, silver, titanium, or steel?
Did you buy stones? Diamonds or something different?
What size are the stones (1/2 carat, 1 carat, etc.)?
Did you get a ring without stones like a traditional gold eternity band?
Do you have a wedding ring set – Engagement ring with a matching wedding band
Did any men get a ring to wear during the engagement period? Or did you just wear a ring after the wedding ceremony?
Any custom, handmade, or “one of a kind” jewelry? What’s the story behind it?
Sweet and simple. Theres no reason to go out and spend all kinds of money on something that will be put thru the ringer. My wedding ring has knicks and dings on it, which means it has bee na tough marriage and I work hard for it. I didnt want a big diamond with flashy gems and an engagment ring. I didnt want to loose the meaning of the ring with diamonds and jewels. My ring is engraved with my husbands name and date we got married! there doesnt need to be anything big about a wedding ring. you will have kids later and will need something that will be ok to get down and dirty with. good luck
